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AHMInternational

Manufacturing: stage 01 of 9

Development is where cost is decided.

Development turns a reference garment, a sketch or a tech pack into a manufacturing specification the factory floor and your QA can both read the same way. Almost every avoidable cost in an apparel order is created or prevented here.

Technical pack open on the development table beside a reference garment

Process

What actually happens.

  1. 01

    We review what you send (tech pack, reference garment, sketch or written requirement) and list what is missing before anything is quoted.

  2. 02

    Construction is resolved operation by operation: seam types, stitch density, closures, reinforcement and finishing.

  3. 03

    Materials are matched to the requirement, with alternatives identified where the first choice is likely to price badly.

  4. 04

    Measurements are established from your size specification or from an approved fit sample, then written with tolerances.

  5. 05

    Decoration, labelling and packing are specified at the same time, because all three affect cost and none should surface late.

What you supply

  • A tech pack, reference garment, sketch or written requirement
  • Target quantity, colour count and size range
  • Artwork for any embroidery, print or label
  • Your target price, if you have one

What you receive

  • Construction specification
  • Bill of materials
  • Measurement chart with tolerance
  • Decoration and labelling specification
  • Commercial FOB costing
Pattern pieces and a digitised marker
Fabric swatch cards fanned out for material selection
Garment being measured against the approved size specification

Risk

What usually goes wrong here.

Every stage has a characteristic failure. Naming it is more useful than claiming it never happens.

The tech pack leaves construction open, so the factory quotes defensively.

We list the open points before quoting and resolve them with you, rather than pricing in a margin for the unknown.

Measurements are supplied without tolerance, so inspection has nothing to measure against.

Tolerances are agreed at development and become part of the approved specification.

Decoration is decided after fabric approval and turns out not to sit correctly on the substrate.

Decoration is specified alongside the fabric and approved on the bulk substrate before production.

Buyer questions

About product development.

Yes, and it is often more accurate. A physical garment answers construction questions a written specification usually leaves open. We measure it, document the construction and confirm the specification back to you before sampling.

We develop one and confirm it with a size set before bulk. It is better to establish the chart at development than to discover a grading problem during inspection.

Development and sampling costs depend on the article, the materials and the amount of work involved. They are confirmed in writing with the quotation rather than published as a standard figure.

TALK TO THE COMMERCIAL TEAM.

Send a specification and we will come back on construction, materials and commercial FOB costing against it.

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