Fabric guide
The knit structures that show up most often in uniform and workwear programs — what each is good for, and which specification fields matter before you lock a polo or tee.
In short
Single jersey, pique, rib and fleece are different constructions, not different marketing names for the same cloth. Jersey drapes and prints easily; pique holds polo structure; rib recovers at collars and cuffs; fleece adds insulation with a brushed back. Specifying “knit fabric” without naming the construction leaves the quotation free to choose the cheapest interpretation.
6 min read
Reviewed by AHM International product development team
Last reviewed August 2026
Construction is the first decision
Fibre and GSM matter, but they sit on top of a structure. Two 200 gsm cotton knits can be jersey or pique and will not behave the same after fifty washes on a retail floor.
For uniforms, the usual failure mode is choosing jersey because it feels soft in the hand, then watching collars collapse and panels go baggy. Softness is not the same as fitness for a program.
Constructions buyers meet most often
| Construction | Typical use in programs | Watch-outs |
|---|---|---|
| Single jersey | Tees, base layers, some dresses | Edges curl; lighter weights show opacity issues |
| Pique | Classic uniform polos | Holds structure; collar still needs its own rib story |
| Rib (1x1, 2x2…) | Collars, cuffs, welts | Recovery depends on yarn and finish, not only on “rib” as a word |
| Interlock | Heavier tees, some polos | More stable than jersey; different hand and cost |
| Fleece / brushed back | Sweatshirts, hoodies | Weight and brush quality drive both warmth and pilling risk |
Specification fields that prevent requotes
- Construction by name
- Jersey, pique, rib, fleece — not “polo fabric” alone.
- Composition
- Cotton, poly-cotton, polyester performance — dyeing and wash behaviour follow fibre.
- GSM with tolerance
- Useful inside one construction family; misleading across families.
- Collar and cuff
- Specify rib separately when the body is pique or jersey. Body fabric does not automatically make a good collar.
- Finish
- Enzyme, silicone, moisture management — each changes hand and sometimes shade.
When to read the deeper guides
If the decision is specifically polo face fabric, read pique versus jersey in detail — that is where shape retention after industrial washing shows up most clearly.
If the decision is weight across categories, use the GSM guide and the calculator on the materials page. If the decision is colour on polyester-rich knits, read the polyester dyeing guide before you approve a lab dip under the wrong light.
Matching a program across articles
A polo, a tee and a fleece in “the same navy” are three dye and construction problems. Approve them against each other when they must read as one brand colour on the floor.
Related questions
For structured uniform polos, pique is the usual choice because of face texture and shape holding. Jersey can be right for a softer tee-polo hybrid if the buyer accepts different collar and wash behaviour. The construction should be a decision, not a default.
Numerically you can write the same number; commercially it means nothing. Compare GSM inside one construction. Fleece at 300 gsm and jersey at 180 gsm are answering different garment jobs.
Collars are usually a different knit — often rib — with their own yarn and finishing. Specify and approve them as their own item during sampling.
Send one specification and we will apply exactly this thinking to your style. Construction, materials and commercial FOB costing.
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